These tart cherry preserves are a labor of love. Beginning in early June, we stalk the Levering Orchard cherry hotline, ready to pounce the minute that the sour cherries are ready for picking. Cherries, and sour or "pie" cherries in particular, are a risky crop in our wet Southern climate. The warm south face of the Blue Ridge Mountains, however, provide a niche microclimate, protecting the cherries from early spring freezes.  In years when the Levering crop fails, we trek deeper into Virginia's Shenandoah Valley to Hartland Orchard for our cherries. The intense flavor of these cherry preserves convince us it's worth it. Try them on top of the best yogurt, ice cream or cheesecake; with sheep's milk cheeses like they do in Spain's Basque region, or with ripe brie cheese or our local favorite, Boxcarr Farm's Cottonseed.